Domaine Marcel Deiss Pinot Gris Beblenheim, Alsace, France

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I tasted three Tokay selections from Marcel Deiss, including a superb 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Beblenheim. With 14.5% natural alcohol, this dense, full-bodied wine exhibits more of a red than white wine character. Deiss even claims there is some tannin present. It is powerful and forceful, with a honeyed, waxy, creamy-textured style, dry flavors, and an extremely long finish. Like most top Alsatian Tokays, this impressive wine requires several years of bottle age to develop further complexity. It will last for 10-15 years. Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579