The 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes is in complete contrast to the Pommard Chanlins -11 - much more feminine with perfumed, floral red berry fruits that feel so joyful. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet orange cordial-infused opening. The tannins are quite supple but one is looking for just a little more complexity and nuance on the finish. This deserves a couple of years in bottle. Drink 2015-2024.
Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable.
Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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