The 1994 Gewurztraminer Cuvee Laurence reveals a candied character to its lychee nut, mincemeat pie, intensely aromatic nose. The color is a surprisingly advanced medium gold. The wine possesses zesty acidity and extraordinary power. Moreover, it is so excessively concentrated and powerful (can you imagine me saying such a thing?) that I suspect it will be controversial. With close to 15% alcohol (it is made from the Furstentum Vineyard), this wine, which takes power and intensity to the limits, will provoke plenty of comment. Although the color appears darker than it should be, given the wine's size, it will last for a decade or more. Domaine Weinbach's 1994 Gewurztraminers are all intense, spicy wines. Knowing that readers have either a love or hate relationship with this varietal, I recommend these Gewurztraminers only for those readers who are fond of ostentatious, in-your-face styles of wine.There has been no shortage of great vintages for Domaine Weinbach. 1989 and 1990 are the finest recent vintages prior to 1994, and this estate turned out extremely strong 1992s and 1993s. The 1994s offer a dazzling combination of power, high extraction, and vibrant, well-integrated acidity, making them strikingly intense, beautifully structured wines. This domaine consistently has conservative crop yields. For example, in 1994 the French government permitted 80 hectoliters per hectare, but Domaine Weinbach averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare. The estate's harvest began on September 20th and finished on November 18th. Kudos to the Fallers, who once again have turned out exquisite wines.The 1994 wines reviewed in this issue were tasted in December, 1995.Domaine Weinbach is imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc. (Robert Haas Selections), Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139
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