I was impressed by Domaine Marc Morey's Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles' floral, orange peel and perfume-laced aromas. On the palate it soars with intense precision and definition of flavors (stones, ripe white fruits and anise) yet enthralls with its richness, depth, medium-to-full body, and thick personality as well as its awesome length. If wines were to be compared to people this Pucelles would be a ballerina because of its combination of power and sublime elegance. Projected maturity: 2002-2010. As I stated in my report on the 1995 White Burgundies, I have seen continued progress at this estate since the 1992 vintage. 1996 is no exception to this trend as Bernard Mollard (Marc Morey's son-in-law and the estate's director) crafted his finest wines to date. Mollard's malos started late (normal for this vintage) but only after he heated the cellar. With the '96 vintage he stirred the lees once a week until the malos started because he felt the high levels of acidity needed the additional body provided by this batonnage. All of Mollard's wines were bottled in September, 1997.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.
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