The pale gold-colored 1991 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive has a tight, youthfully ungenerous white fruit-scented nose. Medium-bodied, opulently-textured, and layered, this extraordinarily spicy wine reveals caramelized mineral, pear, and juniper berry flavors. Its precise character is pure, concentrated, and admirably long in the finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2014.