The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre comes from 2.95 hectares of vine and sees 15 months in stainless steel and wooden barrels. It has a light apple blossom, pear skin and fresh grapefruit-scented bouquet that is focused and gains vigor with aeration. The palate is balanced with a little fatness on the entry. The acidity is well-judged and there is decent weight, if not finesse, toward the finish. Fine. Drink now-2018.
La Chablisienne is one of Chablis’ most high-profile cooperatives and a great success story. Founded back in 1923 and still going strong, it is said that they oversee approximately one-quarter of the region’s production, around 300 individual growers. Therefore, just like Georges Duboeuf in Beaujolais or Louis Jadot in the Cote d’Or, it is important that they maintain standards irrespective of high volumes, since their size ensures that they have an ambassadorial role for Chablis, for ordinary punters perhaps seeking to broaden their horizons. In this respect, the wines should not be looked down upon given the showing here. While none of them reached the heady heights of Chablis’ most revered artisans, there was certainly a consistency across the range that when coupled with the volume produced, deserves to be applauded.
Importers: Ruby Wines (MA), Opici Wines (NY), Grape Expectations (CA), Brescome Barton (CT)