Deiss, who enjoys being controversial, has bottled his 1997 Pinot Noir Burlenberg Vieilles Vignes in the Burgundy-shaped bottle rather than the normal Alsatian flute. It reveals sweet red cherry, plum, and smoked bacon aromas. It is a broad, concentrated, medium-to-full-bodied wine with excellent structure and length. Red/black fruits bathed in creamy mocha are found in this soft, expressive offering. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.
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