This is a new bottling from Morgan, a junior version of their great Hat Trick Chardonnay. Most of the grapes come from the winery’s Double L estate. The wine is bone dry, high in acidity, and compellingly complex. The dryness makes the lime zest and kiwi flavors star on their own, while new French oak adds a gorgeous layer of toasty cream. ——S.H.(2/1/2007)—— 92