A nose of black licorice, star anise, and smoked meat in Pacalet's 2006 Ruchottes-Chambertin, but what follows on the palate is not only carnal and spicy but quite exotic in its hints at over-ripe fruit and musk at the same time as it is treble and bright in its suggestions of distilled red fruit and citrus oil. This is an amazingly complex and fascinated – but, I am tempted to say "amazingly mixed up" – wine. Like its Charmes sibling, it's long and penetrating, but lacks that wine's clarity. Perhaps on another day, or in another year?
The elevage for his 2006s was a bit precocious, says Pacalet, though this was not for want of his trying to slow things down and give the wines time to fatten on their lees. In most essentials, however – including his fidelity to whole clusters and stems and abhorrence of sulfur – Pacalet treated this crop much as he had its illustrious 2005 predecessor. (For further details on Pacalet's unorthodox methods, readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 171. And please be aware that these wine demand ideal storage in order not to risk spoilage.)
Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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