The 2007 Sirica is the only red in this line-up that is disappointing. Sirica is an ancient, rediscovered variety with a lineage that is believed to date back several thousand years. Feudi discovered old, pre-phylloxera vines in their vineyards and performed a selezione massale to plant those clones more widely. To be honest, I have no frame of reference for what Sirica should taste like, but it is pretty obvious that any varietal character that may have been present in this wine has been totally obliterated by a heavy use of oak. For now, the Sirica is a work in progress. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015.
Feudi di San Gregorio is coming back from a period in which it was essentially a victim of its own success. The winery’s early and numerous accolades plus fast, unbridled growth proved to be too much to handle. Today, under the leadership of proprietor Antonio Capaldo, Feudi seems to be much more grounded than in the past. Capaldo boasts an impressive resume, replete with world-class academic credentials and stints with Lazard in Paris and McKinsey in Italy. Despite his background, Capaldo remains humble, eager to learn and well aware of the family winery’s missteps in the past, all qualities which should serve him very well going forward. Noted agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch oversees the work in the vineyards and cellar now that Feudi is moving away from relying on consultants in favor of doing more in-house. The flashy, oak-laden style of previous vintages is gradually being phased out as Feudi relies more on the considerable pedigree of its vineyards. This will be a fascinating story to follow in the coming years. For now Feudi is still a work in progress, and in many cases, the entry-level wines provide more pleasure and varietal character than the higher-end bottlings.
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