According to Don Kautezner, 1995 was the second most difficult vintage he has faced in his 15 years as Adelsheim's winemaker (the worst was 1984, where rot, combined with unripened grapes, made Oregon winemakers feel as if they were participants in a Steven King horror novel). There was so much rot on the grapes in '95 that sorting was carried out in the vineyards by hand prior to destemming. Carrying the harvest back to the winery was not an option for Kautezner as the rot-infested grapes would infect the few healthy ones. The sorting paid off as both the Seven Springs and Elizabeth's Reserve bottlings show no signs of off flavors (the regular bottling does have some disturbing scents and flavors). I tasted two of Adelsheim's '94s when I visited the estate in May and was tremendously impressed at their evolution over the past year. The ruby-colored 1994 Polk County Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir reveals an enticing nose of raspberries, cherries and minerals as well as a beautifully elegant, medium-bodied and silky personality possessing an outstanding purity of fruit flavors (ripe cherries and tangy currants) that linger on its admirable finish. Anticipated maturity: 1998-2002. Tel. (503) 538-3652.
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