Bloody red meat and smoked game scents in Boillot’s 2008 Beaune Clos Du Roi make this Pinot one that would cause a vegan to blanch, but a bright blackberry red currant melange rises from the glass and invigorates the palate as well. Smoky, stony, tartly insistent, and residually carnal in finish, this responded well to air, suggesting that it is still somewhat reduced and might become more expressive in short order. I would expect it to be worth following for 8-10 years. In 2008, Henri Boillot both expanded his domaine and became ambitious qua negociant with Pinot. In the latter capacity, he looks for contracts where he can exercise control over the farming, so that, for example, all of the 2008s – he reports – were cropped at less than 20 hectoliters per hectare and picked very late. Unorthodoxly (for Burgundy, at least) Boillot pressed many of his reds early to let them complete fermentation in barrel. His malos were late but not dramatically so, finishing in August, and most of the wines were bottled in February, a few earlier. (I tasted several 2007 reds from Boillot, but too early-on to adequately assess, and I have not had time to revisit that collection.)Various importers
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