Tart, refreshing, aromatic pomegranate is allied to clean, raw meatiness in Leroux's 2006 Auxey-Duresses a wine I only caught assembled in tank, and that was Leroux's last to finish malo. The tactile pungency of fresh herbs and a fine deposit of tannin detract from neither the vivacity and juicy satisfaction of finishing fruit, nor a lip-smacking salinity. I expect this to be best within its first 2-3 years in bottle.
Benjamin Leroux did not finish harvesting until the end of September, and noted that – particularly in Volnay – his crop was rot-free enough to permit this, and under-ripe enough earlier in the month to demand it! He credits his greening of the rows with having managed the excess August precipitation. As usual, Leroux favored fermentation with berries and stems intact. When I last tasted his 2006 collection, only two of the wines had been bottled, in deference to the estate's usual long elevage, especially in view of very late malos.
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
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