Domaine Barmes-Buecher Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim Cuvee Maxime, Alsace, France

巴爾梅布徹馬克西姆溫特澤恩海姆瓊瑤漿白葡萄酒

點擊次數：3915

Celery root, parsley, caramel, and rose petal, in the nose of Barmes’ 2007 Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim Cuvee Maxime set the rather yin-yang tone for this sweet yet far from seamlessly ripe wine. Voluminous and creamy, it at the same time displays a slightly detached sense of acidity. Caramelized, it also evinces strong herbal bitterness in its finish. All I can say is one should revisit this again with a couple of years in bottle but I doubt it will knit. There is as usual a lot of fascinating wine in Francois Barmes’ constantly shifting, hugely diverse as well as just plain huge 2007 collection, though the level of success was on the whole consistent. As in the past, though, I remained relatively unconvinced by Barmes’ way with Pinot Gris, despite its being a grape that elsewhere revealed special potential in 2007. I can’t say 2006 here represents an advertisement for Barmes’ conscientious and long-standing biodynamic practices, but then, in a year of rampant rot, surely the absence of anti-botrytis sprays has to have been sorely felt at many biodynamic estates. There were a couple of 2006s here too fungal to recommend, with the majority of what was a reduced line-up meriting mild recommendation provided they are drunk-up soon.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29