The effects of extended maceration and maturation in one and two year old barrels is very evident in the 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Domaine des Rosiers – still in barrel when I tasted a pre-assemblage – which combines resin and vanilla with cassis and boysenberry; offers an almost thickly rich sense of concentration; and finishes with a bit of awkward roughness and persistent, slightly drying woodiness. That said, this is powerfully fruity and its notes of salt, iodine, and leather certainly lend a degree of complexity, and the wine seems more likely to in time slough off the effects of its wooden upbringing than do a couple of its fellow Duboeuf Moulin-a-Vents. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463
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