Bruno Colin's 2007 Puligny-Montrachet La Truffiere (reflecting half a hectare, half in old vines) was bottled in February, while the other premier crus were bottled in December. Peach, grapefruit, and mint on the nose presage a ripe but cool and refreshing palate underlain by salt and chalk. This bright, rather spare, but penetrating and long-finishing wine needs a couple of years to show what it can do. For fans of active acidity and interaction of mineral and citrus elements, it will already be a treat. I suspect it will replay following for at least 6-8 years.
Bruno Colin continues vinify his share of inheritance (modestly supplemented by contract fruit) in the family's ancient cellars, which now permit his wines longer time assembled in tank and later bottling. He says he did very little batonnage in 2007 (even less in 2006) and is treating his wines to higher levels of sulfur as a further precaution against pre-mature oxidation. (Some of these wines, incidentally, continue to be bottled under the Colin-Deleger label.)
Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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