Max Ferd. Richter Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Trocken

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The Richter 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett trocken displays a fascinating amalgam of pumpkin, apple and grapefruit rind; substantiality yet levity (at 11.5% alcohol); with tart apple skin and invigorating salinity in the finish. This was given an unusually long 12 hours of skin contact which brought down and buffered the acids while enhancing the sense of extract and phenolic grip. Yet this is still delightful saliva-inducement. I’d plan on following this for 3-4 years and see where it leads – quite possibly to an extended period of interest. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800