Young Michel Chapoutier continues to raise considerable controversy wherever he goes. His unequivocable belief in the principles of Bio-Dynamic farming and his youthful confidence, that may come across as arrogance and a display of too little respect for his more experienced and more elderly peers, have not made life easy for Chapoutier, despite the number of great wines he has produced. This is all lamentable given the fact that Michel Chapoutier would be the first to acknowledge the debt he owes producers such as Marcel Guigal, Gerard Chave, Francois and Jean-Pierre Perrin, and Jacques Reynaud for leading the way. Producers who are as committed to quality as Chapoutier should attract supporters rather than detractors. The work which Chapoutier is doing, along with the work of many other top Rhone Valley producers only creates more interest in the wines of that region.Chapoutier is extremely pleased with his 1994s, claiming it is a vintage not far removed from the powerful 1990. The crop size was extremely small, with yields generally between 1-2 tons of fruit per acre. Where pertinent, I have indicated lot numbers because of complaints about bottle variation with certain cuvees of the Chapoutier wines, most notably the firm's branded wines, Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonnieres, St.-Joseph Deschants, and the two cuvees of Hermitage, Chante Alouette and La Sizeranne. Bottle variation can be the result of a number of factors, such as dissimilar blends (unlikely at this winery) or poor shipping and/or storage conditions, thus abusing the wine (the most likely culprit). Among the Chapoutier red wine offerings from Crozes-Hermitage and St.-Joseph, the 1993s are noticeably less impressive today than they were when tasted prior to bottling. Since no fining or filtering is done, it is hard to envision why the wines taste so much more tannic and less opulent and rich than they did earlier. Michel Chapoutier believes he should have bottled his regular 1993 cuvees earlier to preserve the fruit as this vintage's fruit was fragile and began to disappear at an extremely early age. The 1994s exhibit greater color, ripeness, and richness than the 1993s. The 1993 St.-Joseph Deschants (I originally rated it 89) is significantly less impressive. It has taken on a green pepper, moderately intense, herbaceous character. The color is a healthy dark ruby, but the wine is stern, tannic, and tough. It possesses some fruit, and while certainly more successful than many 1993s, it is losing its charm and fruit and becoming dominated by its structure and tannin - not a good sign. Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 247-7070
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