The 2009 Morey St. Denis En la Rue de Vergy emerges from the glass with expressive fruit. The French oak adds a measure of textural richness and body. There is a focus and energy to the fruit I find particularly attractive, although I would choose to give this at least a few more months in bottle for the oak to better integrate. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Is there anything Bruno Clair doesn’t do well? Clair is best known for his sublime reds among Burgundy aficionados, but his whites (and the Marsannay rose) are equally deserving of attention.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, MelRose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151