The 2008 Aglianico Rubrato is a beautiful wine and a terrific value as well. Ripe dark fruit, smoke, ash, earthiness and subtle notes of gaminess emerge from this mid-weight red. The tannins are just a touch firm, making the Rubrato a red that is best with food rather than on its own, but that is a relatively small critique for a wine at this price point. The Rubrato is a great introduction to Aglianico. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014.
Feudi di San Gregorio is coming back from a period in which it was essentially a victim of its own success. The winery’s early and numerous accolades plus fast, unbridled growth proved to be too much to handle. Today, under the leadership of proprietor Antonio Capaldo, Feudi seems to be much more grounded than in the past. Capaldo boasts an impressive resume, replete with world-class academic credentials and stints with Lazard in Paris and McKinsey in Italy. Despite his background, Capaldo remains humble, eager to learn and well aware of the family winery’s missteps in the past, all qualities which should serve him very well going forward. Noted agronomist Pierpaolo Sirch oversees the work in the vineyards and cellar now that Feudi is moving away from relying on consultants in favor of doing more in-house. The flashy, oak-laden style of previous vintages is gradually being phased out as Feudi relies more on the considerable pedigree of its vineyards. This will be a fascinating story to follow in the coming years. For now Feudi is still a work in progress, and in many cases, the entry-level wines provide more pleasure and varietal character than the higher-end bottlings.
Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642
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