The estate produced a half-barrel (twelve and a half cases) of 1998 Batard-Montrachet. The special barrel that was ordered to accommodate this tiny lot of wine appears to have overpowered what would otherwise have been a highly successful effort, particularly for the vintage.
Smoked bacon and buttered toast aromas lead to a fat, medium to full-bodied, powerful, and creamy-textured character. Oak flavors ranging from vanilla to toast to smoke to raw wood dominate the wine's flavor profile. Readers who crave buttery, oaky Chardonnays will be enamored by this effort. However, those who feel that oak should be, at most, a complimentary spice in the wine's overall personality, should shy away. Drink it over the next 8 years.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.