Intriguingly fusil and animal notes in the nose of Drouhin’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres mingle with high-toned suggestions of pit fruit, herbal, and floral distillates. This comes onto the palate with luscious white peach and yellow plum; Chablis-reminiscent herbed, salted poultry stock; and a gentle creaminess of texture, leading to an arguably understated, yet long, refined, fascinating finish. Here is a striking example of a 2007 that exhibits not only vivacity but a buoyancy, clarity and nuance that were missing from its (admittedly also successful) 2006 counterpart. The new oak component is here nowhere in evidence whereas it was prominent in the 2006 at the same stage. This exhibit of Burgundian elegance and hints of mystery should be worth pursuing from bottle for at least the next 5-6 years.
Veronique Drouhin-Boss expressed enormous – and, in my view, justifiable – satisfaction with the 2007 crop of Drouhin whites, admitting that their sense of concentration might strike some observers as paradoxical given the vintage’s relatively high yields. Regular batonnage seems to have been a successful policy here, at least as judged by flattering textures and overt richness (almost atypically so for the vintage) short-term. For an account of Drouhin’s Chablis from 2007, consult the separate report on that region in this issue.
Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818 0770
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