The overall quality of Produttori's 1989 vintage is superb. However, the wines all taste differently and vary in intensity, texture, and extract levels. The 1989 Barbaresco Moccagatta is a richer, more full-bodied wine than the 1989 Barbaresco Rio Sordo, with splendid aromatics (roasted herbs, jammy bing cherries, and sweet cedar), moderate tannin, and excellent opulence and length. Approachable now, it will be at its best between 1995-2010. The Produttori del Barbaresco is unquestionably a terrific source for Barbarescos that rival the best made in Piedmont. Although there is a tendency to scoff at wines made by cooperatives, the quality of the wines from this superbly run operation is as high as that from any highly committed, passionate estate-bottler. I have been an enthusiastic admirer, buyer, and drinker of this coop's wines since the 1978 vintage. Given the superb quality of the 1989s and 1990s, these wines represent the finest values from these two great Piedmontese vintages. The cooperative is quick to declassify any Barbaresco to a generic Nebbiolo if it is not of an acceptably high quality level. They harvest and vinify separately as many as ten vineyards, of which I tasted seven in 1989 and four single vineyard cuvees in 1990. Most Italian wine experts consider the Rabaja and Asili to be their two best bottlings. As my notes and scores attest, that is akin to splitting hairs at this high level of quality. The Produttori del Barbaresco gets my vote as the best run and most committed cooperative regarding quality, and, most importantly for prospective purchasers, a source for exceptional Barbaresco wine values! Importer: Vias Imports, Great Neck, NY.
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