Fascinatingly sweetly smoky and mineral suggestions of machine oil, metal shavings, and crushed stone mingle with ripe black raspberry and chocolate in the nose of Meo's 2006 Corton Clos Rognet. Like its Clos Vougeot sibling, this is rather massive at least in its youth and its tannins are quite evident, probably all the more so due to the wine's extreme sense of softness (from high pH) and faintly noticeable alcohol. But sheer richness and sweetness render this impressive in its way, and time in bottle may make for refinement and nuance. I would not plan to revisit this before 2011 and anticipate at least a decade's total useful life. Jean-Nicolas Meo harvested 2006 fruit between 13.25-14.25% potential alcohol, slightly higher than in 2005. Except for a few instances of vineyards touched by hail, he said, he vinified in essentially the same way (including the same percentages of new barrels) as he had in 2005. Meo notes that the pHs of his 2006s ended up quite high after their malos, and while this contributes to their sense of softness and generosity, I sometimes find these wines wanting for some vivacity or primary juiciness. (I have appended to the description of Meo's negociant bottlings the words "Frere et Soeur" that appear underneath "Meo-Camuzet" on their labels.)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25
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