La Chablisienne Bougros, Chablis Grand Cru, France

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The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros is from 0.59 hectares of 30-year-old vine and spends 20 months in stainless steel and oak barrels. It has better definition and focus than Les Clos ‘12, with tightly wound granite and apple blossom scents. The palate is clean and fresh with good acidity that lends this Bougros fine tension, although I am seeking more complexity and terroir expression on the finish. Drink now-2019. La Chablisienne is one of Chablis’ most high-profile cooperatives and a great success story. Founded back in 1923 and still going strong, it is said that they oversee approximately one-quarter of the region’s production, around 300 individual growers. Therefore, just like Georges Duboeuf in Beaujolais or Louis Jadot in the Cote d’Or, it is important that they maintain standards irrespective of high volumes, since their size ensures that they have an ambassadorial role for Chablis, for ordinary punters perhaps seeking to broaden their horizons. In this respect, the wines should not be looked down upon given the showing here. While none of them reached the heady heights of Chablis’ most revered artisans, there was certainly a consistency across the range that when coupled with the volume produced, deserves to be applauded. Importers: Ruby Wines (MA), Opici Wines (NY), Grape Expectations (CA), Brescome Barton (CT)