Vaeni Naoussa Damascenos

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The 2005 Damascenos (sometimes spelled "Damaskinos" in other places) is the co-op's oak aged "fume" Xinomavro, which it calls a wine "that towards the end of its cask-ageing process is stored in small fully smoked, French oak casks." It spent 18 months in "toast #2" barrels and inevitably generates a lot of talk about the oak issues. Well, it certainly has a very different demeanor than, say, the winery's 2004 Grande Reserve or 2006 regular Naoussa reviewed this issue. It is not as pure, not as earthy. That said, the oak has had some time to integrate. The wine shows nothing like that drenched-in-vanilla overoaked nuance young, oaky wines can have. By the standards of many regions, the oak treatment is unremarkable. The wine's natural acidity and tannins easily cut through it and the oak becomes part of the whole, not the whole story. This is a little different, probably not a purist's view of Xinomavro, but it is nicely done and by no means over-the-top or even close to it. Were it not for all the talk of the oak process, I don't think there would be much focus on it. There were 2,500 cases produced. Drink now-2025. Vaeni Naoussa is a co-op that buys a large part of the Naoussa region's production. Its specialty has traditionally been Xinomavro, of course, the appellation's signature grape. Importer: Stellar Importing Co., Whitestone, NY; tel. (718) 352-1180