Far more interesting, as well as a terrific bargain, is the offering from Steele's second label, Shooting Star. The 1994 Cote de Columbia outshines all three Pinots with its exuberant, vibrant, peppery, sweet cherry and berry fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with a natural texture and none of the Pinots' tartness, and a fleshy, clean finish, it should be drunk slightly chilled over the next year. Pinot Noir may have more stature and prestige than Grenache, but the latter grape delivers the goodies. Tel. (707) 279-0213
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