As always, Bizot 2006 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru is in fact declassified Echezeaux from the Les Treux portion of that grand cru (which before 1973 was – and in Bizot's estimation still is more appropriately thought of as – premier cru). Red meat notes mingle prominently with sweetly ripe black fruits that are shadowed by their distilled, ethereal counterparts. This harbors plenty of primary juiciness to lend refreshment, while a tart berry skin edge and saline savor invigorate; and unlike in the corresponding non-cru bottlings I barely notice the caramelizing influence of new oak. The wine finishes with brightness and lift, as well as the promise of a delicious continuing colloquy of berries, meat, and minerals. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 7-9 years. Jean-Yves Bizot's wines characteristically strive for elegance and finesse, although his use of 100% new wood (albeit often in 350 liter capacity) can in my experience sometimes place a questionable burden on their often delicate fruit and frame. The wines are bottled directly from cask, barrel-by barrel, with very low dosages of sulfur, so they must be carefully stored, and there will be variation among wines that bear the same label. Unsurprisingly, Bizot claimed to have backed off on his already gentle fermentative regimen to encourage what he saw as the inherently graceful virtues of 2006. None of the wines were chaptalized (unlike in 2007) and none exceeds 12.5% alcohol. Bizot, incidentally, has reached and is apparently able to sustain for his tiny production some of the highest prices I have seen anywhere in Burgundy for non-premier cru wines.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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