The 2012 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a far more mild-mannered bouquet compared to the raucous Batard, but it is utterly regal and beautifully defined. It has a touch of sea spray and orange blossom that becomes more accentuated with aeration. The palate is taut and racy on the entry, then mellows and becomes a classy affair. Nothing outrageous or decadent, but finely focused with a long mineral-rich finish. If you want fireworks go for the Batard, for sophistication come to Chevalier – the Rolls Royce compared to the Aston Martin Batard.
Readers should check out my video taken with Pierre-Yves onwww.erobertparker.com, where he discusses his impression of the 2012 vintage. He is the prime example of a vigneron that might not possess his own vines, yet creates wines that surpass many of those who do. The bottom line is that volume was approximately 40% to 50% down compared to 2011 (apart from St. Aubin that was only 20% to 25% down.) Pierre-Yves explained that his 2012s displayed much higher acid levels compared to 2011 and opined that they will be shy at the beginning. He expressed the importance of not wishing to “push” the wines, so that he could stay true to what he feels is a more classic vintage in the mold of 2007 and 2010. Tasting through the complete set of 2012s, Pierre-Yves clearly had a firm grasp on the vintage and his wines were (again) a cut above the rest, from his generic white Burgundy to his clutch of grand crus.
Importer: A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 343-4054
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