The grand crus include the very good 1991 Romanee St.-Vivant, which is fat and seductive but lacking the complexity one expects in a grand cru. Hudelot's 1991s are the finest wines I have tasted from this estate. Low yields, along with Hudelot junking his mobile bottler, who often stripped the wines by excessive filtration, have worked wonders regarding the final product. All of these offerings taste like fat, voluptuous, opulent 1990s. Gobs of sweet ripe fruit can be found in every wine, as they make for luscious, decadent mouthfuls of red burgundy. All the wines are recommended, but several possess more complexity and aromatic dimension. Importer: Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY.
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