Georg Breuer Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, Rheingau, Germany

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The Breuer 2008 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule – of which there are only a few hundred half-bottles – smells penetratingly of lemon oil, mirabelle distillate, kirsch, cardamom, and white pepper. It lays a slick of glycerin and pure, honeyed botrytis down on the palate with very sweet effect, though it remains texturally flattering. Hints of pistachio and maraschino add interest to a long finish that confirms the high-toned, spicy, and confectionary personality of a wine strikingly different from – and far less memorable than – its Berg Roseneck counterpart. I’d anticipate at least 20 years of potential, but would personally wait to revisit it for the better part of a decade simply to let some of the superficial sweetness diminish. At more than 9,000 man hours including the time spent on intensive selection, Heinrich Breuer says this was one of the most labor-intensive and expensive harvests in the estate’s history. “We have 80 parcels in Rudesheim and are very conscientious about checking each one every couple of days to make sure the acidity doesn’t drop too low, to check the must weights, and to deal with any issues that might arise. We were in fact happy to have gotten around a half a gram more acidity at harvest than in the 2007s,” continues Breuer, who says it was really the phenolics and not the quality of acids or levels of sugar that changed while they picked in the course of October. Reports have reached me of the extent to which the top 2008 vintage Rieslings here are said to have became more harmonious and complex in the course of last autumn, so I may well have underestimated them based on my September tastings. But I was already totally disarmed and amazed by the quality of the several best nobly sweet wines, coming as they do from an estate that treats that genre very much as an afterthought (or, more accurately, as a part of pre-harvest provided noble rot is already there) and from a vintage in which so few such wines were essayed nation-wide.Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle WA; tel. (206) 547-0255