From 60 year-old vines, Jobard’s 2006 Meursault Blagny La Piece Sous le Bois offers a sense of lemony citricity that was missing from the earlier wines in this collection. Bracing and invigorating in its aromatic suggestions of salt spray, kirsch, and citrus oils, its honeyed, malted, nutty, rich palate is threaded with refreshing citrus and underlain by a palpable sense of chalky extract. Toasted almond and cherry stone add to a long finishing personality. This should be worth cellaring for at least 5-7 years. Remarkably, Antoine Jobard (who took over from his father in 2004) relates that he did not begin harvesting until the 23rd of September (two days later than in 2005), and while there is no negative botrytis tone in evidence, and he asserts that none of the wines exceeded 13.5% alcohol, this collection shows the effects of late harvest. Never bottled before 18 months (more often later, though not in the forward 2006 vintage) the Jobard wines were still in barrel when last I tasted them (hence the wider point spread). Every wine is given virtually identical elevage, including around 20% new wood; and none receive batonnage. “I’m guarding the classic style,” says Antoine Jobard, with reference to the wines that made his father’s long-standing reputation for refined, at times understated, and prodigiously age-worthy Meursault. The 2005s here took well over a year to ferment to dryness. Those I tasted from bottle easily eclipsed the corresponding 2006s. The Jobard 2004s are also very strong, and Antoine Jobard believes they will be for drinking after the 2005s (which in my estimation means well after the 2006s!)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; also imported by Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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