The 2003 “Incognito” is fruity and sweet. This, like its Reserva cousin reviewed here, is a wine that lets it all hang out. This Syrah-based wine is laced with raspberry notes and touches of kirsch. It has a noticeable hit of tannins on the finish for structure, too. This, if anything, is much sweeter and more flamboyant than the Reserva, probably arriving at that “candied” pejorative, but it is also real wine in many respects, with fine structure. The Reserva, I think, has both more character and a little more depth. The Reserva walks up to the line. This runs up to it and sticks a leg across it, and then dances a jig, just to prove that it can. I have been decrying the bitterness that I note on the finish of some Portuguese wines, but as I was drinking this, I was thinking that maybe a little bitterness wouldn’t be such a bad idea here. This would be a good ringer for a flamboyant Barossa Shiraz. It is hard to score what is a well made but very likely polarizing wine, so note the warnings and descriptions, and act according to your tastes. It was a bit too much for me. This was aged 50% each in new American and French oak barrels for eight months, and there were approximately 3,900 cases produced. Drink 2007-2013. Danish-born Hans Jorgensen is the owner here, with his American wife (of Portuguese ancestry), Carrie. Cortes de Cima has become popular for Syrah in Southern Portugal, producing very modern-styled wines. The road to Syrah was a bit rocky – they started using Syrah, and running afoul of the wine regulations, thus branding one wine, simply, Incognito. The wines tend to be a bit flamboyant. Certain of them may make some tasters think “over-the-top.” They are usually not for the shy. The first release was in 1996.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155
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