The 2004 Chardonnay Smaragd smells of baked apple with peach-like accents. In the mouth it is rich and creamy, with apple and peach fruit in a nice contrast with the faint bitterness of fruit pits and toasted nuts. The satisfying finish suggests both creaminess and brightness. An exotic in Knoll’s grape menagerie is the yellow or Gelber Traminer, which he introduced some years ago from the Salomon vineyards in Stein. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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