A J. F. Lurton family property, Chateau des Erles is turning out at their top end (albeit at relatively hefty prices for these appellations) impressive wines from old Grenache and Carignan with Syrah. The Lurton’s 2003 Fitou leads with pungent, smoky mineral dust, dried and jammy blackberry, and black pepper. Formidably-concentrated, pungent, and long on stones and minerals in its finish, its faintly drying combination of shriveled fruit suggestions and big tannins, slightly diminishes its appeal, but is not unusual for the vintage. I look forward to tasting what should be an outstanding 2004.Imported by Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105
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