Ungainly now, with upfront, edgy tannins that interfere with the enjoyment of this wine, making it feel hard and astringent. However, there’s a wealth of well-ripened cassis, bitter chocolate, cedar and anise flavors that are so powerful, the wine should easily ride out midterm aging. Give this Bordeaux blend a good 4 years in the cellar, and it should hold its own for years beyond that.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 92