A success in this inconsistent vintage, the full-bodied 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (2,100 cases) exhibits moderate tannin, as well as earthy, black currant fruit intermixed with vanilla and spice box. It cuts a large swath across the palate, but ideally needs another 1-2 years of cellaring; it should keep for two decades. Tel. (707) 944-1364