The 2010 Volnay Santenots du Milieu is one of the most overt, ripe wines in this lineup of 2010s from Leroy. Waves of sumptuous dark fruit saturate the palate in this decidedly ripe, flashy Burgundy. Today, the Santenots is a bit oaky, while the style is on the edge of being over the top, neither of which was evident from barrel. The 2010 will appeal most to readers who like big, dramatic Burgundies. It is the only 2010 here (and at D’Auvenay) that came in at the lower end of my barrel scores. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030.
Lalou Bize-Leroy is always among the first growers to bottle, as she was once again in 2010. Therefore, I have chosen to present final, in-bottle reviews of the 2010 reds along with the Domaine Leroy and D’Auvenay 2010 whites. All of the wines came in at or near the top of my barrel scores. Thinking back to the day I tasted the 2010s from barrel in a very empty-looking cellar, I am reminded, that, as elsewhere, the already minuscule quantities of these wines was made even smaller by the mercilessly short crop in 2010. Readers who can find the wines should not hesitate. In this vintage, the Leroy wines are deeply marked by terroir. Although I don’t share all of her views, tasting with Lalou Bize-Leroy is always a fascinating experience, as everything she does is informed by the deepest and most total conviction imaginable. There is no more ardent exponent of the most fundamental of all Burgundian values – the concept of terroir – than Lalou Bize-Leroy.
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