Crispness and minerals are the key to understanding this elegant wine. It has peaches, apples, mangoes and plenty of charry oak, but so do many California Chards. What makes it special is the bright, steely hardness, a flinty character that cries out for food, such as Ahi tuna tartare on a buttery, garlicky crostini. ——S.H.(2/1/2007)—— 90