A 2009 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese feinherb – while harboring 28 grams of residual sugar – comes off as a bit drier than other Richter “feinherb” wines this vintage, perhaps in part on account of its sheer sense of stuffing, its piquant nuttiness, and its invigorating salinity. There is plenty of sheer refreshment here from abundant apple and grapefruit, as well as invigorating, lip-smacking salinity to the finish, but also the stony, nutty profundity that accrues to this site at its best. Richter notes that his small share of Domprobst is relatively low in elevation and high in fine particulate matter. I suspect this will remain lovely for at least 20 years. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800