Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

里希特酒莊艾森伯格晚收雷司令甜白葡萄酒

點擊次數：4390

The creamy white peach, apricot and guava flavors are accented by notes of basil and thyme in this expressive style. The minerally finish features hints of ripe gooseberry and blood orange, with a lacy texture. Drink now through 2035. 250 cases made, 75 cases imported.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

This white features concentrated apricot, pear tart and ripe red peach flavors. Shows fine balance, with a squirt of kumquat that lingers alongside savory spices on the finish. Drink now through 2030. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 250 cases made, 50 cases imported.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

該酒以蘋果、葡萄柚和堅果油的香氣和風味最為突出，酒中所散發的新鮮蘋果、梨子、檸檬香氣以及所蘊含的迷人，柔滑又多汁的味道，昭示著這款酒是 Richter 在2010 年出產的 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese。該酒酸甜交錯的余味，簡單樸素，具有典型的 Mosel 風格，令人神清氣爽。這款酒適合在未來 4 至 6 年內飲用，經時間的沉淀，酒質在日趨成熟后會變得更加均衡。（據分析，在這款酒里，每 70 克殘余果糖對應 9 克酸。）

Richter’s 2009 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese needs to shed a slightly cheesy overtone, and while it reveals persistent, juicy citricity and invigorating suggestions of things mineral, there is a tightness to accompany its brightness that may either be on account of slight reduction and/or be a measure of the challenges to harmonious ripeness in Veldenz’s unusual sites, in a vintage where this estate’s vines were almost universally late to ripen and reluctant to shed acidity. Still, this Spatlese is impressive for sheer vitality and invigoration; deserves to be revisited near-term; and doubtless has at least 15 years of (perhaps rudely good) health ahead of it. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

The Richter 2008 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese was still in cask when I last tasted it, smelling of quince, lime, cinnamon, and alkaline mineral notes, all of which put me in mind of Loire Chenin. Honeysuckle inner-mouth florality adds interest to this excellent example of trans-regional vintage character that allies delicacy and refreshment to a palpable sense of extract. I would count on this being delicious for 12-15 years. “We had the November weather in October, and the lovely October weather in November,” says Dirk Richter of 2008, thereby essentially explaining his harvest strategy. He ameliorated acidity through skin contact; nature helped by precipitating tartrates; and nonetheless, some wines were de-acidified already as must. Richter is pleased to characterize the results as “classic Mosel Rieslings,” and since Richter spends a great deal of time promoting his wines in the U.S. I am happy to be able to concur in that description, even if some of his 2008s are only modestly successful. Richter admits that this collection is likely at least for the short term to be overshadowed by those on either side of it, but speculates that the 2008s will have their day if given time.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland,?OH; tel. (216) 861-6800