Verget Chablis Terroir de Chablis, Burgundy, France

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From vineyards near Butteaux and Montmains, Verget’s tank-fermented 2006 Chablis Terroir de Chablis received extended contact with and working of the lees, which shows in an impressive richness of texture. But there is also a winsome expression of Chablis minerality here as a rich shrimp- and lobster shell-reduction and a generous juiciness of fresh citrus. There is real buoyancy and delicacy as well as subtlety in the lingering finish of a wine I would feel comfortable cellaring for 3-4 years. Jean-Marie Guffens has gone back to vinifying Chablis at his facility in the Macon, immediately after pressing in Chablis (a residency required for appellation controlee) and a highly selective separation of the juice. Guffens was quite bullish on the 2006 vintage – although he characterizes it as “exotic” rather than “classic” – and could afford to be, after having sat out 2005, and given the early harvest in 2006. (It’s always harder, he points out, to get growers to collaborate in a vintage that demands risky restraint and late picking, as did 2007, when Guffens purchased fruit from only a single supplier and cru.) Even given early picking to retain acidity, says Guffens, the freshness and length that characterize the best of them would not have been possible save for two factors. Most important were the relatively low pH levels that characterized the 2006 fruit. But secondly, the levels of total acidity actually rose during fermentation (presumably a function of the production of succinic acid as a fermentative by-product, a phenomenon in many ripe Riesling vintages as well).Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

The 2001 Chablis Terroir de Chablis exhibits a ripe nose composed of mineral, stone, and gravel scents. Medium-bodied, lush, forward, and expressive, it reveals good depth to its spicy, creamy, and lemony personality. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. "Please drink the Chablis fast!" joked Jean-Marie Guffens, who is convinced that 2001is a vintage for near-term drinking."Given what Mother Nature did to us, the 2001 vintage cannot be great." With that pronouncement, Jean-Marie Guffens, the most forthright producer in Burgundy, began his discourse on the vintage.Overall, Guffens views 2001 as being at the quality level of 1998, with Chablis fairing the worst. "Officially, I score the 2001 Chablis at 12/20, but only after having noticed that everybody gets really angry with me when I say the truth," said Guffens with a sarcastic laugh. He later added that he would score the 2001 whites from the Cote de Beaune 15/20 and those from the Maconnais 14/20.The season was difficult throughout Burgundy from the flowering onwards according to Guffens. "This was a year, unlike 1999 and 2000, that severely punished those with high yields." His approach was to purchase only the finest lots he could find (as well as those he had to acquire in order to maintain allocations), and resell to other negociants those that weren't up to his standards. "I sold back 30% of what I'd purchased, at lower prices than what I had paid.."To Guffens, 2001 is a vintage to drink early. "Those with high yields and/or those who harvested early have unripe acidity, which ages very poorly, those who harvested later had low acidities, there seemed to be no middle ground in this vintage." In response to this dilemma, Guffens elected to bottle all his 2001s earlier than usual, "to trap the fruit in the bottle."Whereas many producers in France are feeling the crunch of the sluggish world economy, Guffens announced that "business is good at Verget, because we are producing less wine, have lowered our prices, and told our importers to do the same." He went on to add that Verget's business model, unlike those of traditional negociants, is to never hold stocks of wine. "We make what we can sell, sell it, then make what we can sell. We are not in the storage business."A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), various American importers, including North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910