Valdicava Madonna del Piano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG, Tuscany, Italy

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The Valdicava 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano impresses for its intensity, its balance and its freshness. The wine is medium to full-bodied with a good amount of fruit weight and power that is offset by acidity and the lifted, vibrant quality of the bouquet. If balance is the objective, this wine meets it goals, although like with many of its peers, you certainly won't miss the deep inner power of this determined Brunello.

The Valdicava 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a lovely wine that finds nice balance between power and elegance. You get the character of the fruit with dried cherry, cassis and cranberry and delicate nuances of grilled herb, cola and blue flower. The bouquet also shows lots of balsam intensity with root beer and rosemary oil. These two sides of the wine reach equilibrium, and the only thing needed here is more cellar aging time. There is a point of youthful tannic astringency that needs to unwind and integrate. I would not recommend opening this 25,000-bottles release before the 10-year mark.

Showing ripe and balanced fruit, the Valdicava 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano (with 15,666 bottles produced) offers many very positive attributes. The wine flaunts a slightly contemporary or international side, and it does so with extreme confidence and elegance. Much of that natural balance comes directly from the classic vintage that exhibits both the structure and acidity necessary for prolonged cellar aging. Now, in the wine's youngest phase, it offers lush primary cherry and blackberry flavors followed carefully by measured spice, toast and red rose potpourri.

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a dark and thickly extracted expression. It is one of the blackest Brunellos you will find in this report. This rich red wine takes a little longer to open because those primary aromas are buried deep under all that bulk and power. Indeed, this wine is almost too much of a good thing. It moves with slow-motion laziness, and the bouquet is in absolutely no rush to show what it has in store. At its leisure, it will deliver dried blackberry, cassis, bitter chocolate, spice, campfire ash and sticky tar. There is some tannic astringency that will (hopefully) integrate with time. This is a hearty and satisfying wine to drink in the heart of winter with gentle snowflakes fluttering outside your window. It is a romantic wine in heart and soul.