Chardonnay is not the ace in David Lett’s deck, but he does a distinctive style that is built to be tight and ageworthy. Yeasty, creamy and elegant, the reserve spends almost two years on the lees and extra time in the bottle before being released. Green apple and lemon flavors rule; this is a food wine and a wine to lay down for a while longer. ——P.G.(9/1/2003)—— 88