Weingut Schwarzbock Kirchberg Gruner Veltliner, Weinviertel, Austria

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From the Stammersdorf suburb of Vienna, the Schwarzbock 2007 Gruner Veltliner Kirchberg is ester-filled in its high-toned herbal and fruit aromas, creamy and expansive on the palate, and influenced by the effect of malo-lactic fermentation and its stay in cask. Its finish struck me as slightly perturbed by recent bottling last summer, so this wine is well worth revisiting and will certainly be worth following for at least a further couple of years. Anita and Rudi Schwarzbock are among the numerous rising talents of the huge Weinviertel, farming nearby vineyards in Vienna as well. This is an estate worth following not just for its values, but for a manifest potential to render some superb wines.Importer:Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Kirchberg vineyard just to the west of Vienna produces distinctly smoky, mineral wines that give a tight, coiled, peppery style of Gruner Veltliner. This is a powerful wine that shows considerable ripeness, finishing with vanilla and spice. Screwcap. ——R.V.(11/15/2008)—— 88