Readers who enjoy muscular, peppery, earthy, black fruit-filled, excruciatingly tannic Petite-Sirah should check out the 1999 Petite-Sirah Bartolozzi Ranch (400 cases). Although impressive, this wine needs 5-10 years of cellaring before it becomes civilized, but it will handsomely repay those who have the discipline and intelligence to hide this beast in the cellar. (Not yet released)Tel. (707) 833-4666; Fax (707) 833-6534