Raventos I Blanc Can Sumoi Silencis Xarel-lo, Penedes, Spain

萊文多斯酒莊坎蘇莫伊瑟蘭溪沙雷洛白葡萄酒

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The 2014 Silencis follows the path started with the 2013, no filtering or clarifying, as they want to offer naked wines that show place and grape. It is a Xarello from the south-facing slopes of the Serral hill planted some 60-63 years ago. The grapes fermented in inox with indigenous yeasts with no malolactic and bottled unoaked. 2014 was not an easy vintage in the zone, the cycle was short and there was rain around harvest time. Even though, these old vines behaved quite well. The nose is clean and fruit-driven with aromas of white apples and pears, aromatic with some balsamic notes (dry herbs and bay leaf). It's very fresh (the pH is around three, and in cooler vintages like 2013 it's even lower than three!), delicious and young, really easy to drink. 60,000 bottles produced.

The 2013 Silencis is pure Xarello from a cold vintage harvested on September 25, which is the date when Xarello used to be harvested 30 years ago. They introduced some big changes in 2013, like not filtering or clarifying the wine, so it-s very cloudy, and retains some of the gas, which gives a fresh sensation. Other than that, it feels very pure, lively and may I say? authentic. It-s like night and day between 2012 and 2013. Apple notes, smoky, flinty, bread dough and a salty, mineral finish with superb acidity and freshness. Pure acid, fruit juice with an electric feeling in the palate. A superb Mediterranean Xarello that should develop well. Very good price for what it is. Drink now-2018. Raventos i Blanc produce a majority of sparkling wines from their property on the banks of the Anoia River, which is within the geographical limits of Penedes. They also produce still wines, mainly a white from Xarello and some reds, but Pepe Raventos, winemaker and current head of the winery, told me that he-s going to concentrate on sparkling wines and whites only. Multiple American importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, NY; Valkyrie, California; Pr Grisley, Pennsylvania, Cream Wine, Chicago, Pionner, Texas, Augustan, Florida, Quality Wine, Georgia And Potomac, Maryland

In the meantime I also tasted some reds. I sampled two vintages of the same white, starting with the 2012 Silencis, which is pure Xarello harvested on September 5 and 6 from a very dry vintage. Malolactic fermentation was blocked to keep the freshness and the acidity. It has aromas of lime and grapefruit and a light to medium-bodied palate with very good acidity and freshness. Drink now-2016. Raventos i Blanc produce a majority of sparkling wines from their property on the banks of the Anoia River, which is within the geographical limits of Penedes. They also produce still wines, mainly a white from Xarello and some reds, but Pepe Raventos, winemaker and current head of the winery, told me that he-s going to concentrate on sparkling wines and whites only. Multiple American importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, NY; Valkyrie, California; Pr Grisley, Pennsylvania, Cream Wine, Chicago, Pionner, Texas, Augustan, Florida, Quality Wine, Georgia And Potomac, Maryland

The 2011 Silencis, a pure Xarello from 35- to 40-year-old, southeast facing vines on calcareous soils, sees no oak aging. It has a reticent nose at first and demands coaxing before it reveals subtle notes of beeswax and jasmine. The palate is very well-balanced with red apple, apricot, citrus lemon and a touch of orange rind. It is married with crisp acidity and a pretty, generous finish that maintains freshness and vitality. Drink now-2014. Apart from their excellent cavas, Raventos I Blanc produces a commendable dry white. Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, NY; Tel. (516) 667-9300