Weingut Prager Smaragd Hollerin Riesling, Wachau, Austria

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Here we go again: like last year’s rendition (or this year’s Kaiserberg) the Prager 2007 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin is so ester-rich it is almost spiritous in intensity, and marries a glossy, glycerin-rich palate of pit fruits, bitter blue and black fruits, pungent citrus oil, and bright lime citricity. In addition, there is a carnal, meaty, musky, saline and savory streak here that puts me in mind of red Burgundy or Jurancon. This wine is practically spooky, and should be a thrill to follow for at least 4-5 years, though whether it will achieve elegance and refinement I doubt. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin represents another high-toned, ester-rich, intense expression of Riesling. Bitter-edged black currant, elderberry, citrus zest, pepper, and mineral pungency combine for an impressive palate and downright aggressive finish. Again, what will become of this when it settles down, or ought one make the best of it over the next several years, with appropriately intense cuisine? Certainly it will be a fascinating wine to follow. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2004 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin was very slow to ferment and is the only Riesling in this collection to harbor (just) over four grams of residual sugar. It smells of lime and elderberries and offers a medium-bodied and juicy, yet rich and honeyed mouthful of citrus and black fruits. The finish is long and engaging. What this wants is a bit more complexity. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The most flattering of Prager’s 2004 smaragds to taste now, thanks to greater weight in the midpalate and riper fruit flavors that flirt with peach and melon while being firmly anchored by citrus and mineral. Hints of Earl Grey tea and stone dust garnish the nose. Drink now or hold.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 89

The 2000 Riesling Smaragd Durnstein Hollerin, produced from a terroir known for its poor, sandy soil, has a nose filled with rich, ripe, pears. On the palate the pear flavors are intermingled with honeysuckle blossoms, verbena, and chamomile. This extremely elegant, light to medium-bodied, feminine wine has outstanding balance. Projected maturity: Now-2012. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700