Weingut Prager Smaragd Hollerin Riesling, Wachau, Austria

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The 2004 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin was very slow to ferment and is the only Riesling in this collection to harbor (just) over four grams of residual sugar. It smells of lime and elderberries and offers a medium-bodied and juicy, yet rich and honeyed mouthful of citrus and black fruits. The finish is long and engaging. What this wants is a bit more complexity. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The most flattering of Prager’s 2004 smaragds to taste now, thanks to greater weight in the midpalate and riper fruit flavors that flirt with peach and melon while being firmly anchored by citrus and mineral. Hints of Earl Grey tea and stone dust garnish the nose. Drink now or hold.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 89