Simmonet-Febvre’s 2006 Chablis Le Clos (also tasted from barrel) displays the saline, chicken- and herb-broth character that often distinguishes Chablis from any non-Kimmeridgian wine on earth. Pear, quince, lime, mint, and narcissus also contribute to the ravishing complexity of aromas on display here. Substantial and rich, yet satisfyingly juicy and thought-provokingly meaty and mineral, this reflection of a great site will probably be worth following for at least 5-7 years. Louis-Fabrice Latour and oenologue Jean-Charles Thomas presented a 2006 collection that displayed the opulent richness that one would anticipate from such a ripe vintage, and from the Latour house style. Sometimes these wines want a bit for clarity, definition and distinctiveness – occasionally they are rather obviously marked by dairy flavors from their malolactic conversion – but the best of them have much to offer. Since I did not have opportunity to include in my issue 179 report notes on the Chablis bottlings of Simmonet-Febvre – a domaine Latour purchased in 2003 (and which also bottles some lovely sparkling wines) – I have made note of them here.Louis Latour has numerous importers throughout the U.S.
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